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Ice Climbing
Q: What advice do you have for ice climbing training?

A: First of all, remember that any exercise that simulates ice climbing moves (e.g., full-body activities in multiple dimensions involving no machines) will help you prepare indoors for your favorite outdoor activity.

Second, analyze what is most needed for ice climbing: pulling strength and endurance, calf and forearm endurance, healthy wrists and arms with a strong flick of the wrist, and core strength.

Choose Chins or Pullups over Lat Pulls.

I’ve been asked over and over about the pros and cons of chins and pullups compared to lat pull downs and machine-assisted pulls. I firmly believe chinups and pullups do more for the rock and ice climber than lat pull downs.

Why? Doing pullups, chinups requires that you pull your body up rather than pulling something (bar, handle, etc) down to you. It requires the use of abdominals, shoulders, lats, biceps and muscles in the forearms. Try your pullups using dowels tied to a squat rack to simulate the same grip you’ll be using on your ice tools.

Calf Endurance

I suggest sticking to standing calf raises of some sort (Universal, leg press machine, dumbbells, barbell, back pack) rather than seated calf raises or ballistic jumps (as in boxer’s shuffle or jumping rope). The point here is one of use: try to keep legs straight so you can work the gastrocnemius, rather than the soleus which is primarily worked when knees are bent, as in the seated calf raises.

To train for muscular endurance in the calves, try this simple but demanding routine: start with 2-3 sets of 15 repetitions on your favorite 1 or 2 calf-strengthening exercises listed above and over several months, try to build to 5 sets of 30 (2-leg, bodyweight to start, up to pack weight as you progress) and your calves won’t have any trouble once you get out on the rock or ice. Emphasize the pause at the bottom for a full second (the fully stretched position) and be sure to stretch well afterwards.

Mountains

Climbing Core Strength

A good exercise to incorporate to your gym workout is hanging knee raises: On your chinning bar, hang with hands about shoulder width apart and arms straight, palms facing forward. Make sure you perform the knee raises under control so there is no momentum. Exhale and bring your knees up to your chest, inhale as they return to the start. To make this harder, add ski or climbing boots to your feet (or ankle weights), straighten the legs, or try alternating one leg at a time, knees bent or legs straight.

Climb High.

By Courtenay Schurman. For more information, visit: www.bodyresults.com

 

Diana Salom

 

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